Appendix B
Protocols for the preparation and flavour evaluation of samples and small-scale fermentation techniques.
Contributed by D. Sukha and E. Seguine
With Glossary of Terms for Flavour Evaluations from the Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour (Cacao of Excellence, 2023)
Introduction
Chocolate manufacturers and users of other cocoa products will each have their own criteria to assess flavour quality and there are ISO standards for some aspects of quality assessment (ISO 2451:2017 and ISO 2292:2017).
Procedures for detecting specific off-flavours in cocoa mass, such as smoke, mould and excessive acidity have been published by IOCCC (now ICA) (IOCCC, 1996).
However, at that time, there was little agreement within the industry on how flavour notes (other than off-flavours) could be assessed due to the different terminologies and interpretations in use.
Moreover, many of these flavour notes would be lost if the high temperature roasting conditions advocated in the IOCCC method were used to prepare the samples.
There has been a growing awareness of intrinsic flavour attributes as well as the need to confirm the absence of flavour defects in cocoa samples.
To this end, there have been a number of international initiatives to identify interesting flavours and gain an understanding of the influences of genetic, environmental and post-harvest processing on core and complementary flavour attributes.
The recently published “Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour” (Cacao of Excellence, 2023) aims to establish a common language for a clear communication throughout the cocoa value chain.
The protocols presented in this section summarise information in the Cacao of Excellence Guide and are designed to enable flavour assessments to be made using small-scale or basic laboratory equipment.
The detailed protocols, glossary of terms and flavour wheel have recently been published in the “Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour” (Cacao of Excellence, 2023).
Although the summary information presented in this Appendix has been updated for consistency with the current version of the guide (as at September 2023), it should be noted that the protocols and terminology are expected to continue to evolve and readers are advised to consult the website https://www.cacaoofexcellence.org for any updates and revisions to the “Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour” which may supersede the information presented here.
Guidance is also included on appropriate post- harvest methods to use when only limited quantities of fresh cocoa beans are available, for example in breeding programmes and other research and development activities and on how to train sensory panels.
These protocols adopted by Cacao of Excellence and Heirloom Cacao Preservation Initiative (HCP) have been the basis for a number of peer-reviewed journal articles and have been adopted by a number of country research groups to facilitate international harmonization.
The protocols could also be adopted by those looking to introduce flavour quality assessment for research or monitoring purposes at larger cooperatives and estates, government offices, research stations/ institutes in producing countries and, of course, by manufacturers.
